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Closet Core Staple Pattern
Written by PippaFabric
Category: Patterns, reviews, sewing

Who knew a jean pattern could become a smart staple.  It should have been obvious since I can live in jeans when I don’t need to be in work mode.  My normal trouser pattern is a wide leg fly front which wouldn’t have worked for this fabric.  Naturally Closet Core Patterns has it sussed.

I’ve been looking for a pattern for this cotton sateen for years. As soon as I saw it on Stitch fabrics stall I knew it needed to be a slimline trouser. I tried one or two patterns in a toile but they just didn’t fit quite right. It wasn’t until I’d started looking through my fabrics and patterns for a new course I’m working on that I struck upon the idea of slim jeans. Why hadn’t I thought of this before? It’s obvious now. Jeans don’t have to be made of denim. We use other patterns in different ways by changing the lengths or using different fabrics, why not jeans. It was a block for me that jeans were Denim. Well no more.

Pippa standing in a t-shirt and stove pipe Ginger jeans in a blue and white cotton sateen

The pattern.

I had bought the Closet Core Patterns Ginger jeans years ago but never quite got around to making them for some reason.  I think it was the struggle to find the perfect weight of denim.  Soft and stretchy but not too thin.  There’s way more choice now.  As more jeans are made and with different patterns being available, the fabrics are becoming easier to find.  It struck me that I could use the Gingers for a slim line trouser.  There is an option for a ‘stove pipe view on the pattern.  This could be perfect for that and I could solve my demo fabric/pattern all in one go.  Win!  Well almost.  After filming the zip section, I looked back at it and realised that you couldn’t see any of the stitching.  Great for a wearable pair of trousers but no good when you’re trying to show how to do it.  Back to the drawing board.

The sateen is a lovely weight.  It has just enough elastane in to be comfortable and have good recovery to keep the shape.  I think a stretch twill would work well too.  These may become a work staple.  The fabric needs to have a certain amount of body but the stretch gives a great comfort edge.   A good smart/casual fit which is such a tricky role to fill.

Pippa standing with her back to the camer and hand in back pocket of the ginger jeans

I never know what to do with my hands so I’m taking a leaf out of Heather Lous book and holding my hair whilst putting my hand in a back pocket.



I didn’t alter these until after I’d made them up.  I deepened the back crotch curve as it appeared to pull.  With these being a close fitting jean they showed up my apparently ‘low seat’.  It would seem nothing is as perky as it once was.  Hey ho. I’d better get back to my regular walks.

Heather has a great jeans adjustment download in her resources which goes through all of the common fit issues and how to solve them. It’s something I often fall back on to give a quick fit solution.  I think next time I’ll also do a small sway back adjustment too as these tend to drop at the centre back after a little wear.  This could also be due to my lowering backside.  I did have to shorten them but that’s standard being 5’4″ rather than 5’6″ as is average.

Final thoughts

All in all I shall make another pair.  Probably not as Jeans but as the smart/casual trou. The instructions are, as always with the closet core patterns, a great guide to make up with. The fit is good and they have the right amount of comfort to smart ratio.  Choosing the fabric will be the only issue due to the vast choice now available.  I should check out my wardrobe to make sure I don’t get carried away.  Something that works with more than just a white T-shirt or navy top…  with less of a pattern maybe.  But where’s the fun in that?  Maybe a velvet cord pair.  Ooh, now I can feel my Vic Reeves impression coming on.  You can’t not stroke a velvet.

Have you made jeans?  I’ve also made the Morgan Jeans which will, I think go into another blog post.  Otherwise this post will be epic in proportion.    Although there are a lot of pieces to jeans they’re actually really nice to put together.  Now that there are so many different shapes and figures allowed for with jean patterns there really is one out there for the jean you dream of.




  1. Jackie Talbot

    Pipa they look amazing and I love it jeans don’t have to be made from denim. Opens up a whole new world for my Stash of fabrics I don’t know what to do with

  2. Linda Crosbie

    The fit looks amazing Pippa, I’m really looking forward to giving these a try. I’ve got some stretch denim I bought to do these but I also have a gorgeous floral stretch sateen, so now you have me thinking …. thanks for the inspiration

    • Pippa

      Thanks Linda, Stretch sateen gives a lovely lighter feel to these jeans. I’m so glad it’s inspired you to give these a go.


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