Musing my Morgan jeans
So a while before I made my Ginger Jeans I tried the Morgans from Closet Core. Although I love a skinny jean, in the summer I like something a little looser. I have to admit, my skinnys only really come out when the winter or long boots come out. These could be perfect. I wasn’t wrong. The first were a wearable toile and the second the ‘real thing’. They are the perfect mid-season jean. Think looser more relaxed fit, comfy and better for the warmer weather. Good with sandals or boots.
The first is a soft mid weight denim with a little stretch ( a find in Whitemans of Bungay) and the second a heavier denim, non stretch, with a coloured reverse bought from my local emporium Anglian fashion fabrics which have occasional deadstock. I do like a little stretch to my denim. I think it comes from my youth where elastine wasn’t so regularly used and the denim was…firm. Jeans weren’t really soft until they’d been worn for at least 5 years. Denim’s now available to the regular sewist in so many differing weights and stretch % that we’re really spoilt for choice. The pattern itself asks for non-stretch denim.
The Pattern- Adjustments
I made a size 12 working with the size chart. My measurements were close enough to the chart to work with a straight size. More often than not I’m grading between waist and hip in the big four patterns. I made a small adjustment to the crotch curve once I’d made the first pair up. Closet core have a great fitting download for common adjustments with trousers which meant I could do a quick check to make sure I was changing the pattern in the right place. Even after years of sewing, it’s nice to have someone point you in the right direction if you’ve not done it in a while. I had a little extra fabric in the front crotch seam so I scooped out 1/8″ to remove the excess.
Making up-Round one
These went together like a dream. Yes, I had to take them apart to adjust the crotch seam but that is what a toile is for. To check fitting and pattern issues. I played with the top stitching on my toile pair but I let the fabric speak more on my others. I did go bells and whistles with my first pair just to play. All the top stitching, I really love the way the back pockets turned out. Some firey flame cotton was used for the inside of the pockets. I did differ from the instructions with those because I wanted to show of my fancy pockets without having to remove my Jeans. Now I can just show any interested party my fancy flame pockets without embarrassment. Many a rivet was hammered, which, once you get the hang of them become a great stress reliever.
With the second pair I let the fabric do much of the talking. I used the red back of the fabric on the coin pocket, turning the seam allowance to the front. Red top stiching thread as a highlight. I left the back pockets plain, these are a much more subtle pair of jeans. The pockets are a peackock pattern cotton lawn, softer than the quilt weight cotton of my flame pockets. I did these pockets as instructed but on reflection I prefer the insides of my pockets to be pretty so when I need another pair I’ll make the most of the pattern for the inside of the pockets.
I like the way you can use the pocket fabric for the inner waist band to cut down on a little bulk. It gives a really nice finish and makes it much easier for your machine to manage the bulk when top stitching and adding the belt loops. One thing I did find with my first pair, I added belt loops too close to the zip. If you’re wearing a belt, give the buckle space to sit nicely between the loops. Mine were too close on my first pair.
These came up just right without any other adjustment but I will say one thing. They fit really nicely when you first put them on but the denim does relax after a couple of hours wearing them. Even though the toile pair had a little elastane in, they still loosened off after a while. So if they feel a bit snug at first, stick with it. I need a belt after a few hours to feel secure but this also means I can have lunch, or a slice of afternoon cake should the need arise without being uncomfortable.
These are the jeans I’m drawn to if I want to feel comfortable on a long journey. ( Remember those?) Both of the denims have softened up really nicely and the wear has highlighted that lovely denim weave. I tend to wear them with the hems rolled up but I’ve also been known to wear them full length to keep the draft off my ankles when huddling around a fire pit. If you’re looking for comfort, these are the jeans for you. I’m not going to need another pair for some time but I do fancy some in cord …I’ll add them to the list but the list is long so we’ll see if they get bumped up the line. Have you made Jeans? How did you find it? If you’ve yet to take the plunge sewing jeans, take it slowly. Enjoy each process and you’ll end up with your perfect jeans. Next I need to make some basics. T-shirts and tops are lacking now that pre-lockdown t-shirts are a little snug.